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Video instructions and help with filling out and completing Uac instruction sheet 2022
Hi i'm michael byrne like any other tile installation material there's a right and a wrong way to do things yes you can punch a hole in a backer board with a hammer but in this segment i'm going to show you how to fabricate and install boards like a professional you can cut fiber cement boards with a high speed dry cutting blade which will be creating a lot of dust scouring and snapping and sharing take less time than the driveway and are easier on the environment for cutting blind and irregular openings I use low-speed tools and buy metal blades and Korb it's the strategy that reduces airborne dust if you are installing board everyday the power share will reduce the energy would otherwise expend on scoring and snap the key to a successful installation of any tile backer is to ensure the structure is built to reasonable tolerances flat level and plumb to within a quarter inch in ten feet is the minimum standard I prefer an eighth inch and ten feet for 12 inch tiles and even tighter for tiles over 18 inches temporary nails are a good way to maintain the required gap between boards manufacturers allow the use of hot dip galvanized roofing nails but I prefer backerboard screws which are tough to work with but instead of fighting with the screws though I first set them with a hammer it's very important to install the right screws inch and a quarter long screws are used to attach quarter inch boards only half inch boards require 1 and 5/8 inch and longer if the boards are spaced off the stud regular or galvanized bugle head screws appropriate for gypsum drywall are the wrong choice since they are not self countersinking and not strong enough to dimple FCB nor do they have the required holding power even under the best of conditions I still go through plenty of bits when working with backer board screws if it is difficult to get the heads flush on wall installations I try longer screw and if that does not work I may be forced to pre countersink flush heads are not critical if only tiles are to be installed but if a membrane follows the surface should be as smooth as possible for long life I prefer to use solid carbide countersink available through machine shop supply out temporary nails are a good way to maintain the required gap between boards to reinforce the seams it's important to use alkali resistant tape and because backer boards don't have a tapered edge I hold off installing the tape until each seam is about to be covered with tile to reduce leaks in wet area corners where a membrane is not used I install a flexible mesh tape made specifically for this surface you the idea is not to laminate the board to the pan but to eliminate air between the backer boards and the face of the.